A guide to English Sparkling Wine and a few to try this Christmas
A guide to English Sparkling Wine and a few to try this Christmas
If there’s ever a time of year to pop open a bottle of fizz, it’s Christmas. The pop of a cork, the sound of the fizz as it hits the glass and the sight of bubbles rising to the top all adds to the palpable excitement of the occasion.
But while Champagne may well have been the bubbly of choice for most in years gone by, England’s own version of this celebratory drink now rivals that produced by our French counterparts.
Modern English viticulture emerged in 1952 when the first commercial vineyard was planted at Hambledon Vineyard in Hampshire. Grapes like Seyval Blanc, Müller-Thurgau and Bacchus were mostly grown to create still wines, which as WineGB chairman Simon Robinson explains, “didn’t exactly set the world of fire”.
That changed in 1988 when American couple Stuart and Sandy Moss, owners of Nyetimber estate in Sussex, recognized the parallels between the growing conditions in southern England and the Champagne region. They decided to plant the three grape varieties used to make Champagne - Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier and were soon winning awards for their English sparklers.
Why England?
While sparkling could be made in any wine region in the world, like any wine there are certain places better suited to its production. As Nyetimber discovered back in the late eighties, England's cool climate coupled with the chalky soils found here (particularly but not exclusively in the South East of England) make it the ideal place for making top-quality sparkling wine.
It’s no coincidence that England’s sparkling wines are often compared to those of Champagne. Indeed, some of France’s most well-known Champagne houses, such as Taittinger and Pommery, have already bought up land here so they too can capitalise on the benefits of our terroir.
How is it made?
There are various methods of making sparkling wine around the world. Prosecco, for example, is made using the tank or Charmat–Martinotti method, where the second fermentation of the wine (the bit that gives the wine its fizz) takes place in large stainless steel tanks rather than in the bottle.
While some winemakers in England have (and continue) to experiment with this model (Kingscote Sparkling Wine is made this way for example), most high-quality English Sparkling Wine is made in exactly the same way Champagne is produced – a method referred to as Méthode Traditionalle.
Most English Sparkling Wines, like Champagne, are made from a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, however blanc de blancs (white from whites) wines made from 100% Chardonnay and blanc de noirs (white from blacks) wines made solely from Pinot noir, Pinot Meunier or a mix of the two are also made here too.
The grapes are picked, usually by hand, at their optimum ripeness and a base wine is made by gently pressing the grapes to extract the juice then the first fermentation, whereby the yeasts convert the grape sugar into alcohol, begins.
The difference between still wine and sparkling wine is that a second, slow fermentation takes place afterwards, this time in the bottle, trapping the CO2 created during the fermentation process, which dissolves into the wine to create the bubbles.
The length of time a wine is aged, including the time spent on its lees (dead yeast cells) is dependent on the style of wine being produced - typically the longer the yeast stays in contact with the wine, the richer it becomes in complex aromas of toast, pastry and brioche.
Once aged for the desired time, the lees are removed using the processes of riddling and disgorgement. Riddling involves gently rotating the bottles to dislodge the yeast cell sediment and move them to the neck of the bottle, then the sediment is frozen and pushed out of the bottle thanks to the pressure of the bubbles (disgorgement).
At this point a liquor d’expedition (a mixture of wine and sugar) is added by the winemaker. to balance the acidity and aid flavour development within the wine. The amount of sugar added here is referred to as the dosage.
So, there you have it. Now you know how English Sparkling Wine is made, here’s a few of our favourites for you to try over the festive period.
Our favourite English Sparkling Wines for Christmas
Christmas Eve: Oxney Organic Rosé
You’ve clocked off work, the kids are in bed and now it’s time to relax and pop open this delicious, fresh, dry, gently-foaming rosé wine. Delicate aromas of raspberry, peach and lemon on the nose and palate along with a light lees richness, the wine is great on its own but will match a range of canapés and fish dishes - something light ahead of the next few days of feasting!
Christmas Day: Ashling Park Cuvée
Winner of the 2020 WineGB Sparkling Wine Trophy, this classic blend shows how long ageing on the less can enhance the flavours. With biscuit, brioche, plus citrus, apple and honey notes on the nose and an exceptionally long, balanced finish, it’s one of our Master of Wine’s favourites and a perfect accompaniment for a traditional Turkey lunch.
From the winner of WineGB’s Winery of the Year 2020, this Brut NV is made by the reputable Dermot Sugrue, often referred to as the best winemaker in England. A fine mousse with excellent layers of lemon, hazelnut, brioche and yellow apple flavours, this works well with tapas and charcuterie so a good one for a Boxing Day picky tea!
New Year’s Day: Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs 2014
After one hell of a year, ring in 2021 with this extra special blanc de blanc from Gusbourne in Kent. Bright golden in colour, with aromas of preserved lemon, ripe pear and brioche, this has had a minimum of 42 months on the lees resulting in a complex wine with a long, rounded finish.